Showing posts with label ciseler. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ciseler. Show all posts

Monday, December 07, 2009

Julia Child's influence hits home, yet again


Chef Dan Fluharty will tell you that he does things his own way.

Chef says his potatoes tourné tend to "look like Fred Flintstone carved them," instead of the perfect seven-sided pieces prescribed in classic French cooking.

He says his ciseler of an onion is the "German method, not French."

And Chef Dan sometimes will add a dash of cream when it's not called for (pommes duchesse) or rescue a broken sauce with a little water.

Yet, his movements, his teaching and, most important, his results, bring us back to the basic and classic outcomes.

Could it be that this chef of lengthy experience both in restaurant and classroom kitchens, was influenced by the dame of French cooking in America? Yes, is the decided answer.

"I was in eighth grade, I believe, and I was a latch-key kid. You know, I had my own key to let myself in. I would get home about 2:45 each afternoon and turn on television. Julia Child came on at 3 o'clock. I would sit there and eat my cookies and watch her. She made an impression that stayed with me for many years."

Up until right now, I would say.

Chef's recollection came last week as he taught us how to make the classic French omelet. His memory was prompted by my remarking that he had called to mind Julia Child's program in which she showed how to make the French omelet, dropping two beaten eggs into a pan and shaking until the omelet took its shape and she plated it. Sixty seconds of perfect technique resulting in a perfect omelet.

Julia's influence continues on for me. In this manifestation, Chef Dan Fluharty's passion and his considerable skills are the vehicles.

Tuesday, October 06, 2009

T.G.I.F.? Not this week


"So, are you feeling good about Friday?"

Chef Tony Marano of the California Culinary Academy asked me that as he watched me parboil a tomato for concasse as part of my preparation for his upcoming knife-skills practical exam.

Minutes earlier the man critiqued my tray -- skin in the onion ciseler, unevenly cut potatoes battonet, carrots julienne still cut larger than the specifications (1/8 of an inch gets smaller and smaller as we get older, no?).

After that, how could he ask the question? Here's how: It was meant purely as encouragement from an educator who loves his profession and wants to see his students come to that affection, too. And I do, Chef, I do. I just wish there were one, maybe two extra days in the week for practice before Friday.

(Photo: the soon-to-be victims and the weapons of my kitchen mayhem.)

Thursday, October 01, 2009

What comes after good? Great, of course

We boiled water today in culinary class, our first use of fire on just the fourth day into our studies.

Actually, Chef Tony boiled the water; we students used it to blanch tomatoes so we could practice tomato concassé. That's one of 10 basic cuts and shapes we are learning in Culinary Arts Foundations I. Each has a name, is precise in method and outcome and helps form the foundation of all the cooking and food preparation we will undertake going forward.

After a rough start Tuesday on the battonet, my cutting work is improving. Chef Tony said so himself, when he saw the results of my ciseler -- that's the dicing of an onion, something I already knew how to do, sort of. I asked Chef when he came 'round for an inspection if my ciseler looked good. "Yes, good," he responded. "Not great."

He wants great, and so do I. A few onions will meet their ciseler this weekend in my kitchen.

(Photo credit: mon-chef-a-moi.com)