Putting the French into French cooking

The complexities of French cooking, via all seven classical French cuisine techniques, were explained in an intense, fast-moving demonstration today at the California Culinary Academy.

Chef Gilles Penot (left) of Le Cordon Bleu Culinary Arts School in Ottawa, Canada, was on the San Francisco campus , which is a Cordon Bleu affiliate school, for the demonstration.

In one hour and 45 minutes, Chef Gilles trussed a chicken for roasting, tournéed carrots and potatoes and cooked a meal as more than 30 novice students, including yours truly, sat in rapt attention.

Chef Gilles' heavy French accent made following his lesson more challenging, but it added a genuineness to the afternoon's activities. There was both a seriousness and a light-hearted happiness to him as he worked, an obvious manifestation of his love for le cuisine Francais.

His teaching involved a facile recitation of the proper French terminology interspersed with rapid-fire questions to students about why he was doing what he did or what he should do next.

In the allotted time, he showed the trussing, browning and roasting of the bird, glazing of the carrots and sauté of the potatoes, plus creation of a brown sauce from the chicken fat's flavors and a hearty-looking stock.

Bonus: In the class that followed, as we practiced our knife work, Chef Gilles showed me an efficient and effective way to hold the potato for tourné.

Tourné or not tourné; that is the seven-sided question

Our "Bible", Gisslen's "Professional Cooking", ends its step-by-step instruction for the tourné by showing a photo of the finished product with this caption: "If perfectly done, the potato has seven sides." Then it adds in parentheses and somewhat wryly: "(but customers rarely count them)."

You can bet that the next time I am in a good restaurant and find tournéed potatoes on my plate, I will count the sides.

Tourné -- past participle of "to turn" in French -- is the knife cut that produces a little football-shaped potato, and it is the last of the 10 basic cuts learned in this, my first week of culinary school. In one week, we students in Chef Tony's Foundations of Culinary Arts class must do the 10 cuts in 30 minutes.

The tourné exercise went well, and it is one cut that I feel confident about. It aso happens to be the one that from all appearances is the most complex. Yet it was simpler for me than the julienne (1/8 of an inch square by 2 1/2 inches long), which others in the class appeared to cut with ease.

Pumpkins and apples and squash, oh my!

Autumn is bringing welcome additions to the Fillmore Farmers' Market in San Francisco.

Pumpkins and other winter squash should begin appearing in abundance. Pumpkins, by the way, are for much more than Halloween and jack 'o lanterns. As the season gets going, I plan to use them for soups, side dishes and roasted pepitas. Stay tuned for some recipes.

Several vendors had apples last week, and more are expected as the harvest gets going.

And the squash -- acorn, butternut and other varieties -- ought to start piling up. Squash are great to have around, because they can keep for weeks, if the skin isn't pierced, and they supply delicious and sweet tastes for soups, garnishes and in combination with other ingredients. My acorn squash and quinoa recipe will appear here in the near future.

Meantime, though, at Saturday's market, I will be on the lookout for big white potatoes and carrots. Why? Because my culinary school practical exam on 10 cuts and shapes -- including julienne, tourné, battonet and paysanne -- will be in a week. Practicing -- and the yummy results including cream of carrot soup and, perhaps, potato leek soup -- will be a top priority for the next week.

(Photo credit: ehow.com)