Old-fashioned steak perfection: the Delmonico

Several culinary school classmates agreed with my statement as we began the red meat part of the curriculum: "If we can't cook a steak to Chef's specifications, we ought to give it up."

So far, no need for that. Last week, we did filet mignon and skirt steak, and I cooked both medium rare, just the way Chef ordered.

Today, a major challenge: the Delmonico, a bigger version of the rib-eye. More accurately, the rib-eye, the New York and the club steak are newer versions of the Delmonico. It was first cut and served at Delmonico's restaurant in New York City in the 1850s, according to the Steak Perfection Web site.

Once again, a winner for me, as my 12-ounce Delmonico was judged by Chef to have been cooked to perfection based on his standard for doneness -- medium rare.

One more version hits the grill in class on Thursday, a New York steak, as the centerpiece to a three-course meal. First course will be a mixed greens salad topped with shredded duck confit. Second course will be a  white bean soup garnished with crispy fried julienne of leek. Third course will be the New York steak, medium rare, with a sun-dried tomato bearnaise sauce, roasted red potatoes and an artichoke and cauliflower gratin.

Why so much fat on a duck?

We fabricated duck today in culinary school, in preparation for sauté of duck breast in class on Wednesday.

We knew going in, and Chef confirmed for us, that duck is pretty fatty. It adds flavor, certainly, but also must be dealt with in the prep work and the cooking so as not to be overwhelming when serving and eating.

Cutting into the duck gave us a literal first-hand look and feel for the mount of fat there, contained largely in the thick, luxurious skin. A good bit of it had to be trimmed away, yet we kept the piece attached to the breast meat. On Wednesday, we will score it ith a knife before searing to allow a good bit of the fat to render.

We will serve the duck with what Chef calls "poor man's port balsamic sauce." It will include the deglazed bits from the duck breast sauté pan, shallot, sugar, flamed red wine and brandy and balsamic vinegar.

Also on the menu: couscous laced with toasted pistachios and red bell pepper; curried green beans and carrots.

For our second plate, we will make a grilled rib-eye steak, accompanied by garlic mashed potatoes, creamed spinach, onion rings and compound butter made from roasted red pepper.

So why do ducks have so much fat? For insulation and bouyancy in the water.

(Photo shows what the dish should look like.)